Meyer Micro Energy Lab
Water Injection
Addition of Control Cable to Valve

I've added a means to control the valve opening from inside the car, while driving.

It is a "Manual Choke Control Cable" which I purchased at the local auto parts store ($16 USD).

Below, the control cable installed in my car.
It is secured in place by a small hose clamp, easily adjustable!
To install here, I took the valve stem apart and brazed a flattened piece of copper tubing, with holes drilled in it, to the top of the stem.  Re-assembled valve. Put a mounting hole in part of the dash. Threaded this end thru the hole, thru the firewall and around to this location. Bent the push wire to fit and clamped it in place. Also, adjusted the packing nut - not too tight.
H2O control cable.
Control diagram.

  1. The porting into the engine above the throttle plate is only effective up to about 40% full throttle because as it opens up the vacuum is lessened.
  2. It seems that my steam generation capability is lacking for this application, that is if it could deliver at full throttle!
  3. I haven't seen any marked increase in fuel economy - could be bad driving habits 'zooming' around...
    The trip to Pontiac, MI. wasn't too good for gauging mileage as it rained all the way back and on the way there I didn't have the valve right - too much / not enough - ran rough and ran out of water...
  4. The water injection does make a noticable difference in power - I like it and want it all the way up to full throttle!
    When it is working correctly, it is very nice, smoother running and more torque (can back off on throttle when cruising...)!

What Next?

  1. Been looking at a nebulizer unit (ultrasonic, "cool mist" humidifier), actually put it inside the car and connected a 3/4" hose thru the firewall, to the intake... (Have taken back out for now.) It being a household appliance required 120 VAC (I allways wanted an inverter) so I bought a 400w inverter to power it (it only uses 60 watts).
  2. It has it's own mist control which I want to control according to the throttle position. The control is a 10k ohm slider control. I thought of putting a flex cable from the throttle to this control, and will probably do so to test with, but it will probably wear out soon.
  3. The water sloshes around too much when driving and the supply tank overfills the nebulizer chamber.
  4. If the nebulizer works better, try finding a DC operated unit and build a custom mist generator that is smaller and can fit in the engine compartment with a seperate water supply...
    Cool mist ultrasonic humidifier.Inside, showing the transducer, water level sensor and air duct.

Another Idea for Steam:

  1. Make a thin (3/4") boiler that sandwiches between the engine head and the exhaust manifold. It could be a box that has tubes for pass-thru of exhaust and header bolts with 1/4" steel face plates (with the appropriate holes thru them). This would make up a 1/4" chamber inside which would get hot from the exhaust passing thru it, also from the manifold.
  2. The water could be sprayed in one side on demand (via a small pump, controlled by throttle position signal).
  3. It should have 2 outlets:  1. Steam out to feed engine.   2. A water drain tube, back to source.



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